4a-fe dune buggy need opinions

I bought this buggy for $150 and I ordered an adapter plate from kennedy eng. for a 4a-fe. I have the donor car still so anything I need from it I have. I need some help with the wiring and fuel pressure issues. My big questions at this time are:

1) where is the circuit opening relay located on the car? (above fusebox inside car?)



2) Where can I find an inline fuel pump rated for the 4a-fe pressure? (30-33 psi was what I've found) (the cheaper the better)



3) Has anyone setup a 4a-fe with efi system on an off-road or standalone application? (I'm using as much of the car as I can. harness, ecu, intake, etc. )

Reply 1 : 4a-fe dune buggy need opinions

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Reply 2 : 4a-fe dune buggy need opinions

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Reply 3 : 4a-fe dune buggy need opinions

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Reply 4 : 4a-fe dune buggy need opinions

That's pretty Fuckin BADASS!!! and i thought i was original :P



You can pretty much run the whole electronics in stock form just removing the body harness and your done!

well not really...



i use a walbro 255 fuel-pump at about 100psi and if anything it ran better in stock form! i would recommend it over most fuel-pumps oem or after-market.



as for the electronics i would just try to make it work in stock form so you don't have to remember how you ran a wire every time you have a prob.

Reply 5 : 4a-fe dune buggy need opinions

always wondered what people in OK did... lol

Reply 6 : 4a-fe dune buggy need opinions

If you use a Walbro (about $100), you could use a cheap fuel pressure regulator to turn the pressure down to whatever level you want. Those Walbros are very good pumps, if a bit noisy.



Nice project too. Keep us informed of how it works out.

Reply 7 : 4a-fe dune buggy need opinions

Nice! why a 4AFE though?

Reply 8 : 4a-fe dune buggy need opinions

Quote:

Originally Posted by REN69 Nice! why a 4AFE though?

Guessing: because he had one in his donor car. And he'll probably still be looking at a 1:10 power to weight ratio.

Reply 9 : 4a-fe dune buggy need opinions

yeah in something like that... a 4afe is PLENTY... wont there be an issue with the engine sticking out the back way to much? Wouldn't think you would want so much weight over hanging the back like that

Reply 10 : 4a-fe dune buggy need opinions

if you look he's got a section missing from the rear and without completely changing drive-trains to something like an MR-2 he doesn't really have a choice... that's why he is a bit forward for a dune-buggy to counter-weight.



all in all this would be a ton of fun!! might even consider using a 4af with a nasty carb!!! say bye bye electronics...

Reply 11 : 4a-fe dune buggy need opinions

oh and here is a 250hp 9000rpm 4afe the way it should be...







and a 20v for shits

Reply 12 : 4a-fe dune buggy need opinions

Damn, now that's a 4afe! Where do you get racing parts for that engine? I've never seen racing stuff except pistons for the 4afe.



Okay, so I got my wiring down to just the engine after several hours. I have a single plug that I can jumper-wire and make electricity go to all sensors, fuel injectors, distributor, and I can kick the starter and cold-start injector by jumping another terminal. So as far as wiring, I'm doing good.



No word yet on the adapter plate. But should be soon, then the real fun begins.



And this is the only thing to do in oklahoma besides meth and fat girls. (not fond of meth, but fat girls aren't too bad)

Reply 13 : 4a-fe dune buggy need opinions

Oh, ghosty was right. I bought the donor for $100 and got it running in a few hours. I chose the 4afe because they are cheap, reliable, readily available, and did I mention cheap? Plus I have an extra engine to start building up if this project somehow needs more power.(not likely) I want efi because the stock carbs on those cars are crappy, I've had my share of aisin fits! And I don't want to spend the bucks on a weber or holley performance carb. The efi will be very reliable when I get it setup, hopefully. I'm worried about the oiling on this engine when I climb steep hills, cause it only hold 3 quarts. You guys think I may have an oiling issue on long hill climbs?

Reply 14 : 4a-fe dune buggy need opinions

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiejoe Oh, ghosty was right. I bought the donor for $100 and got it running in a few hours. I chose the 4afe because they are cheap, reliable, readily available, and did I mention cheap? Plus I have an extra engine to start building up if this project somehow needs more power.(not likely) I want efi because the stock carbs on those cars are crappy, I've had my share of aisin fits! And I don't want to spend the bucks on a weber or holley performance carb. The efi will be very reliable when I get it setup, hopefully. I'm worried about the oiling on this engine when I climb steep hills, cause it only hold 3 quarts. You guys think I may have an oiling issue on long hill climbs?

it's possible... but you could custom fab a bigger pan to make it hold more, the pan is fairly oddly shaped stock which is why it only holds 3 quarts.



or you could just go dry sump like the buggy above did

1992 front cartridge-style or sealed strut assembly?

Hi, folks.



I don't post here often, but it's finally time to re-do the struts on my 1992 DX sedan, and I need a little help. I have a brand-new pair of KYB strut cartridges sitting in the house that I picked up off Fleabay over a year ago. According to KYB's .pdf catalog, these front cartridges, SKU #363060, are for all 1988-92 FWD with serviceable strut (excluding GT-S). Yet I see also that there are also sealed struts for the exact same description of car. The catalog shows no differentiation between sedans, coupes, or wagons, just "All FWD" or "GT-S Model".



Does anyone here know offhand whether the 1992 DX sedan has sealed or serviceable front struts? Or is there an easy way to tell without removing the suspension? I just wanted to find out before I take the car to the mechanic for the job, only to find out I have the wrong damn struts.



Not that this has anythig to do with the price of coffee in Brazil, but I had a base 1987 AE82 sedan which had serviceable front struts with cartridges, which I guess is why I bought the cartridges for the 1992. Did some of the sedans come with serviceable struts, and others of the exact same type and model year come with sealed units? Is Toyota insane?



Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance for your help, guys. I did do a search on "sealed strut cartidge" in the AE92 forum, but the results were inconclusive. Lots of info if I had a GT-S lol.

Reply 1 : 1992 front cartridge-style or sealed strut assembly?

my wagon has sealed struts. have to replace the whole thing.

Reply 2 : 1992 front cartridge-style or sealed strut assembly?

Yup, some came with sealed and some had cartridge type.



I have spare front sr-5 serviceable strut case (just the shell) if you want. lmk

Reply 3 : 1992 front cartridge-style or sealed strut assembly?

If it has a hexagonal nut on the top of the thick part of it it's servicable



It will look like this if it's servicable:





take off the wheel and look at it.

Reply 4 : 1992 front cartridge-style or sealed strut assembly?

Or if your car sits high enough, you can see it above the wheel without taking it off. You might have to reach in and move the bellows in the middle of the spring to see.

Reply 5 : 1992 front cartridge-style or sealed strut assembly?

sedans aren't serviceable..... I've only heard the GTS and the one pair in the SR5 being serviceable.

Reply 6 : 1992 front cartridge-style or sealed strut assembly?

Quote:

Originally Posted by toyotaspeed90 sedans aren't serviceable..... I've only heard the GTS and the one pair in the SR5 being serviceable.

no, they are, they're just smaller serviceable struts. I stumbled across a sedan in the junkyard with a set.

Reply 7 : 1992 front cartridge-style or sealed strut assembly?

While on the topic, anyone had any luck gutting the rears and using choice of cartridge? Whats known to fit?

Reply 8 : 1992 front cartridge-style or sealed strut assembly?

If you gut the rears the only thing that'll fit easily is a koni yellow. It's designed to fit like that. You put a bolt through the bottom of the strut to hold it in place.



There is no top nut on the rears like there is on the front...

93-97 Corolla Short Shifter into AE92 GTS

There are very few options we AE92 owners have to choose from when searching for a short shifter. They are either really expensive (TRD/TWM) or can be difficult to source (AE101/CELICA Stock Shifter) and do not produce much result. There is, however, an alternative to the above mentioned. The part is very easy to source, it is very low priced, and the results are like day and night; it’s a 93 – 97 Corolla Short Shifter. It cost me about $17.15 after tax and free shipping. It came with the shifter itself (no bushings), spacers, and new bolts.







You’re going to need your basic set of metric sockets, a ratchet, phillips & flat head screw drivers, and a dremel w/HD cutting wheels. I went through 4 cutting wheels, they cost about $4.00 for 20 wheels.



1. Remove your shift knob, shift boot, center console and plastic trim from around the shifter. It is necessary to remove all of these because you will need the working space.



2. Remove the stock shifter and shifter cables. Remove the shifter plate from the chassis so it looks like the pictures in step 3. Here is an exploded view of the entire shifter assembly to aid you in this step.







3. Cutting the shifter plate:



Make the cuts as shown in the picture below with the dremel. These cuts need to be made to allow full range of motion for the shifter and shifter cables. I made the cuts from both the top and bottom of the shifter plate. Reattach the shift cables to the modified shifter plate. Don't bolt the shifter plate back onto the chassis yet.











4. Spacers:

The spacers that came with the shifter have a lip that help guide the shifter plate for ease of installation. However, the lip is too high to use without the stock grommets or additional washers.







You have three options to choose from at this point:

i) Cut off the lip.

ii) Ditch the stock grommets and find some washers that will fit over the outside diameter of the spacer’s lip and match its thickness.

iii) Leave in the stock grommets and use the spacers.



I went with the third option as it was easiest and didn’t require another trip to the hardware store. Bolt the shifter plate back onto the your chassis.







There are 4 spacers total; one at each mounting point of the shifter plate. I only highlighted the two that were visible.





5. Shifter:

Grease up the balls of the new shifter and transfer all the stock bushings onto it. Before installing the new shifter it’d be a good idea to grease up the shifter sockets as well (to the left and below the shifter). Install the new shifter. Test out the new shifter in ALL GEARS before putting everything back together to make sure that the lower ball of the shifter and the cables have enough room to be operated. Make any additional trims to the shifter plate if necessary.







5. Plastic trims:

The center console and shifter trim will not over the raised shifter assembly. You need to stretch it out a bit. It is not noticeable once they're screwed in.







6. Shift Boot:

The shift boot will not fit over the shifter assembly because it has been raised. You will need to trim the plastic plate that is inserted into the shift boot to make it work. Make the cuts as shown below. And put your shift boot back on.













7. Put your shift knob on and take her out for a drive.



Comments:

I skipped the nitty-gritty details in hopes that most of you are mechanically inclined. The install should take about an hour to do. I hope the information in this write up is sufficient for your understanding. LMK if you have any questions.



Thanks to Pancho_Vanilla who drove 40 minutes to my house so I could take pictures while installing the short shifter into his car. My apologies for the lack of before and after pictures of the finished product, you'll have to live with out them or just install the short shifter to see it for yourself.



Here are some approximate measurements for the stock and aftermarket shifter:

Description: Measurement (Stock/Short Shifter)

From bottom of ball to bottom of shifter: 6.2cm/8.8cm

From top of ball to top of shifter: 22.3cm/16.6cm

Shifter position towards back: 6.1cm/2.7cm

Shifter position towards the left: 4.0cm/0.3cm

Lever arm sticking out of the side of the ball: 3.4cm/3.2cm

Spacer thickness: Not Applicable/0.8cm







Impression:

The new shifter is pretty awesome! It doesn’t feel like I’m driving a truck anymore. The throw is super short; it feels like at least a 60% reduction in throw distance (I didn't take actual throw measurements). The shifter sits lower and further from the driver but I’ve quickly gotten used to it. The shift knob sits right in the middle of all gears and not in the path of 1st to 2nd gear like other shifters.

Reply 1 : 93-97 Corolla Short Shifter into AE92 GTS

would love to know how to do it when you get the write up finished

Reply 2 : 93-97 Corolla Short Shifter into AE92 GTS

squeaks, someone already hit me up about this. we might be getting together this Thursday. So, expect the write up to be coming by the middle of next week.

Reply 3 : 93-97 Corolla Short Shifter into AE92 GTS

awesome looking forward to it

Reply 4 : 93-97 Corolla Short Shifter into AE92 GTS

good stuff because i bout a the 7th gen short shifter to mod it in but didnt have time but it did look like i need spacers and maybe cut the front of the shift bracket alil

Reply 5 : 93-97 Corolla Short Shifter into AE92 GTS

I believe the Celica (ST162?) short shifters fit as well... could be the same design for all of them.

Reply 6 : 93-97 Corolla Short Shifter into AE92 GTS

i doubt they're the same. when i was shopping for the shifter on ebay they were listed either as a corolla short shifter or a celica short shifter. If they were exactly the same i think they'd advertise them as being the same or compatible with both chassis. even TWM makes their shifters specific to either the celica or the corolla. too bad i dont have both a celica and corolla shot shifters in front of me to compare.

Reply 7 : 93-97 Corolla Short Shifter into AE92 GTS

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4dRcOrOlLA good stuff because i bout a the 7th gen short shifter to mod it in but didnt have time but it did look like i need spacers and maybe cut the front of the shift bracket alil

the shifter i bought came with spacers and they're are needed to make the 7th gen short shifter work with the 6th gen. and yes, there is cutting of the shifter bracket to allow proper movement of the shift cables to get in and out of gears. you can't move the shifter at all if you don't make the cuts needed.

Reply 8 : 93-97 Corolla Short Shifter into AE92 GTS

i've got a 5-6th gen celica gts short shifter in my 1990 corolla it fitted perfectly it could be a little shorter though. Im sure a shifter from the same model turbo version celica should be able to fit aswell it may even be shorter since it is the sportier model. I have been meaning to put up a thread with pictures on how i installed it.

Reply 9 : 93-97 Corolla Short Shifter into AE92 GTS

So is it a 7th gen corolla or a 6th-7th gen celica shifter?

Reply 10 : 93-97 Corolla Short Shifter into AE92 GTS

7th gen corolla aftermarket short shifter

Reply 11 : 93-97 Corolla Short Shifter into AE92 GTS

Sorry about getting there late, I had to pump gas.



Anyway I just got home and shifter is working great. I got stuck in traffic on the way home so it's thoroughly tested. Thanks again, I'll be looking forward for the write-up.





EDIT: Here are the pictures of it installed before and after



This is when it was cut (I'm never doing that again)









And here it is after,

















The throws are about 3 1/2 inches from 1st to second and so on

Reply 12 : 93-97 Corolla Short Shifter into AE92 GTS

Write up, write up, going to start a riot soon

Reply 13 : 93-97 Corolla Short Shifter into AE92 GTS

lolz

Reply 14 : 93-97 Corolla Short Shifter into AE92 GTS

write up is up. Mods, can you please add "How-To:" to the title that shows up in the list of threads?thx

header worth it? 4afe

so my 92 5 speed wagon has a bad exhaust leak near the manifold which I assume to be the infamous manifold crack. I'm going to replace the manifold very soon and was wondering if a header is worth the money.



I found a manifold on eBay for 60 bucks and pacesetter longtube header for 120. would I see a noticeable gain in performance or gas mileage? I'm going to delete the catalytic converter and I have a short ram intake on it already. I just don't know if a header is worth the extra money.



has anyone used the pacesetter header on a 4afe? if so what did you think?

Reply 1 : header worth it? 4afe

bump. Trying to find out how much there is to gain with a header. I've searched on here and found nothing but people talking about fitment or quality of different headers but nobody said if there was a decent gain.

Reply 2 : header worth it? 4afe

Eh, you'll probably feel something but measurably it may be very small. Go with the ebay, iirc the pace setter is the same thing.

Reply 3 : header worth it? 4afe

No power gain with either a header or deleting the cat (unless cat is clogged due to years of driving with the engine poorly tuned). Gains come from tuning the car the way it was when it left the factory. Using factory spark plugs purchased from a Toyota dealer, for example, will give you plugs set to a tight .029 or .030" in gap which is great for power. Cleaning up your gooey throttle plate will give you power gains too as will a new oxygen sensor, new Toyota air filter and setting the ignition timing to factory spec. Cracked manifolds don't happen if the 4afe owner is willing to drive the car gently for the first 3 miles in the morning.

Reply 4 : header worth it? 4afe

Quote:

Originally Posted by verlaryder No power gain with either a header or deleting the cat (unless cat is clogged due to years of driving with the engine poorly tuned). Gains come from tuning the car the way it was when it left the factory. Using factory spark plugs purchased from a Toyota dealer, for example, will give you plugs set to a tight .029 or .030" in gap which is great for power. Cleaning up your gooey throttle plate will give you power gains too as will a new oxygen sensor, new Toyota air filter and setting the ignition timing to factory spec. Cracked manifolds don't happen if the 4afe owner is willing to drive the car gently for the first 3 miles in the morning.

no offense but you sound like you're just trying to sell me Toyota parts. factory settings are almost always not set ideal for MPG or power but set to run rich and retarded timing for reliability. I know this isn't a performance engine but if I can upgrade and get a gain I will.



I know for a fact my intake flows better than factory. that's a MPG gain and throttle response gain over a factory Toyota filter. I know a header will flow better and I will see a gain but I'm trying to see what other people have seen as to it being worth the extra money.



I know how cars work and how to gain power. I also know how to maintain my car. I'm ASE certified. just trying to feed off of other people's experience before I spend money.

Reply 5 : header worth it? 4afe

you know, i had some pacesetter headers on my old ae92 sedan, and the sound it made was awesome, it was the closes thing i had to a impreza it had a awesome rumble and when i put the exhaust 2.25 straight back it was even meaner rumble(i had a flex pipe put in too) with the apex N1 style ebay muffler. i loved it soo much, the little bit more kick to having a CAI, headers, exhaust and adj fuel reg. i drove the car like litterally 200 miles and the headers cracked and broke off the flanges on the head... thats my experience with pacesetter headers for my ae92 sedan... =(

Reply 6 : header worth it? 4afe

Quote:

Originally Posted by mapolley07 no offense but you sound like you're just trying to sell me Toyota parts. factory settings are almost always not set ideal for MPG or power but set to run rich and retarded timing for reliability. I'm ASE certified.

The Toyota engineers would tell you the factory fuel mixture is set for the lean for top fuel economy and emission control. Here's a quote out of the 1976 Toyota Corona owners manual: "Your new engine is tight and runs on a very lean fuel mixture for emission control."



When they were new and equipped with Toyota parts, 4AF and 4AFE Corollas with 5-speed manual trannys delivered 35-37 MPG at highway speeds of 60-70 MPH. But the owners on this forum who are contemplating installing headers and/or disconnecting their catalytic converters are only getting around 28-32 MPG because they use aftermarket spark plugs that come with wide spark plug gaps, their throttle plates have gooey deposits, their oxygen sensors are moderately to heavily worn, their ignition timing is not set to factory specs, some of the valve clearances may be looser than factory specs, etc.

Reply 7 : header worth it? 4afe

I read somewhere that the headers off of a newer model corolla (98+ i think?) with the 7/4afe has a better header design as it is a 4-2-1 header.

Reply 8 : header worth it? 4afe

Quote:

Originally Posted by verlaryder The Toyota engineers would tell you the factory fuel mixture is set for the lean for top fuel economy and emission control. Here's a quote out of the 1976 Toyota Corona owners manual: "Your new engine is tight and runs on a very lean fuel mixture for emission control." When they were new and equipped with Toyota parts, 4AF and 4AFE Corollas with 5-speed manual trannys delivered 35-37 MPG at highway speeds of 60-70 MPH. But the owners on this forum who are contemplating installing headers and/or disconnecting their catalytic converters are only getting around 28-32 MPG because they use aftermarket spark plugs that come with wide spark plug gaps, their throttle plates have gooey deposits, their oxygen sensors are moderately to heavily worn, their ignition timing is not set to factory specs, some of the valve clearances may be looser than factory specs, etc.

I agree with only part of this. I agree that a lot of people complain about gas mileage yet aren't willing to keep the car tuned up or even check their tires.



#1.... lean actually makes more power. cars (especially boosted ones) are run rich because lean is hotter and increases the possibility of knock.... which can ultimately destroy a motor.



#2... "Toyota" parts are not special. They just aren't. This has been gone over and over... yet those who are gung-ho on "original Toyota" parts aren't ever willing to listen. Toyota doesn't make most of their parts. They assemble. It would cost them way too much to have a plant that makes spark plugs, wires, o2 sensors, etc.



Factory spark plugs are Nippon Denso. NGK's are just as good for imports. Spark plug gaps can always be attained from any parts worker and it's up to you to check the gap.



Factory o2 sensors are made by NTK (which is the same company as NGK). Bosch are widely available and what come factory in many german cars -- either way, NTK or Bosch are available easily.









as for other comments.... in NA there was no 4/7afe after 1997. The heads are designed differently, I would guess that the exhaust ports aren't the same (could be wrong, though). intake ports ARE different and there are other, subtle, changes. Around 1991/1992/1993 is also when Toyota went from a 16v 4age to a 20v 4age... and many more changes were made... it was a generation change for the corolla and I would guess the exhaust ports are different on a 4/7afe head.

Reply 9 : header worth it? 4afe

I had a Pacesetter (black) header on a Tercel, and was quite dissappointed at how quickly it rusted. within about 2 months the whole thing was covered with a coat of rust.

It never cracked or leaked for the 3 years that I had it on the car, but it made me ashamed to open my hood. I won't buy a Pacesetter again.



I had a chrome OBX header on a 92 Corolla (4A-FE), but I never drove that car with the stock manifold installed, so I couldn't compare the performance. I had bought it with a blown head gasket, and the manifold was cracked.



I don't think you should expect a sizeable performance gain with just a header, but it will save weight, and look cool.

what is the correct 2.2L idle speed difference between Park and Drive (at full stop)

question to gen4 distributorless camry design owners ONLY



as in topic, I cannot seem to find answer to this question anywhere, so thought maybe guys with properly running 2.2L camrys (automatic transmission, California emission specs car 2000 or 2001) could give the right answer based on own properly running cars.



per FSM 5s-fe specs (gen4) the idle speed in Park or Neutral should be 700+/-50, but it doesn't say when (normally) the same idle speed should be while car is in Driving gear and at full stop.



mine are currently** at:

a) 730ish rpm at hot* idle in Park

b) 660ish rpm at hot* idle in Drive gear (at full stop).

*by hot idle, I mean car is fully warmed up, e.g. after 30 mins highway driving or 1hr locally.

** all electrical accessories OFF, though I had parking lights on (headlights off)



what are yours at?

thanks.



I am mostly looking for numbers from 2.2L gen4.5 00-01 camry owners (or solara gen1 00-01) with California emission specs.

Federal specs might give a tad different numbers (DIFFERENT ECU and upstream oxygen sensor), same about California specs gen4.0 camry (97-99) or solara gen1 '99 that had a 3rd IAC port with Air Assist tube to fuel injectors (California emission spec'ed 00-01 do not have it).



best if someone could read them off the OBD2 scanner.

Tire rollout, mpg, speed, odo confusion HELP

Can't get my head around this thing. Every time I think I've got it confusion sets in. Also, lack of info probably too, lol. Not really looking for a "they are all close enough" or "the slight difference will not make any significant..." type answers. Wanting to know the correct way of logicing this thing out.



First, not going to massive wheels and tires and needing to know the max that will fit etc. The dilemma is replacing stock size with stock size and the varying specs.



05 Camry xle. 215/60/16 tires. Came with Bridgstone RE92 that show a roll out of 798 revs per mile.



Have Sumitomo Touring LSV on there now (came with the car when I bought it) that need replacing due to a camber problem on the driver rear tire causing the inner tread band to wear (whole other question as not found the issue causing it yet). Can't find exact specs on these, but close as I can tell from specs I've looked at, these tires have 811 revs per mile roll out. Now this could be an error and I guess I need to go out and actually try to measure, but basic logic questions below are the same either way I believe.



On trips with gps our speed on the speedometer is showing a little over 1 mph faster than we are actually going.



So, here is the question/confusion area.



Tires I've been looking at on Tire Rack have roll outs listed anywhere from 792 to 800.



I don't have data on how accurate the Bridgestones would have been on speed showing and actual odo miles covered. My thinking is that if the Sumitomos are 811 rpmile then the GPS should be showing that I am moving faster than the speedo indicates. Am I thinking the right direction on this?



Also, the odo would be showing less miles covered than actual. Am I in error?



One wonders if a closer mph speedo error could be dialed using the different roll out numbers, but then which way to go? (know it will probably be very little difference, but my question remains, as enquiring old minds want to know. Well at least mine does)



I'm also assuming that if the roll out on the tire can bring the speed in mph showing on the speedo closer then the actual odometer distance covered should be calculated closer to true. Correct or am I way off on this?



My guess logic right now is saying that at 811 my odo miles is showing less than it should be. Thus my mpg should be higher as I'm actually covering more ground than shown(not really supported by the gps numbers though that show 1mph slower than speedo indication)?



If I go to a smaller tire roll out then what happens...................? My speed slows down even more than what is indicated when compared to the GPS? What happens to the odometer reading. Does it end up showing more miles than actually covered and so I then get an inflated mpg?



Someone please edumacate me.

Reply 1 : Tire rollout, mpg, speed, odo confusion HELP

You can try this:

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html



I'm using 225/45/18 tires. My speed is about 0.5 mph lower than the actual speed when I'm travelling at 60 mph. I'm happy about this since I'm sure I'm not overspeed.



PS: Don't rely on the speed meter on the road as an exact measuring tool.

Reply 2 : Tire rollout, mpg, speed, odo confusion HELP

Thanks for the post and calculator. I'll keep it bookmarked. Only calculates the numeric on a tire size or compares different size tires though, but still handy.



Looking at the same size tire 215/60/16.



Various manufacturers and models within their lines have different specs listed though for revs per mile. That is what I'm zeroing in on.



Effect of a same designated sized tire, but with say one listed by the manufacturer supplied spec at 790 revs compared to one listed at 800 say.



What does going from one number to a lower number do to the speedo reading and odometer reading (effects how fast you are actually going and also effects mpg calculations).



Any formulas/calculations for determining this that anyone knows of?



Thanks again for your post!



Cheers

Reply 3 : Tire rollout, mpg, speed, odo confusion HELP

Lets say you're going FROM a tire that rolls 811 times per mile TO a tire that rolls 800 times per mile.



In this example, simply divide the difference in revolutions (11) by the smaller number. 11 divided by 800= .01375 or 1.375% The speedo will now be reading faster by 1.375%. Example: 65mph X .01375= .89375mph. Now your speedo will be reading 65.89375. Not a big difference. The odometer will also be reading 1.375% more miles. A 300 mile trip now would be 300 X .01375= 4.125 or 304.125 Your gas mileage would "improve" unless you factor in the small odometer error.

Reply 4 : Tire rollout, mpg, speed, odo confusion HELP

Lets say you're going FROM a tire that rolls 811 times per mile TO a tire that rolls 800 times per mile.



In this example, simply divide the difference in revolutions (11) by the smaller number. 11 divided by 800= .01375 or 1.375% The speedo will now be reading faster by 1.375%. Example: 65mph X .01375= .89375mph. Now your speedo will be reading 65.89375. Not a big difference. The odometer will also be reading 1.375% more miles. A 300 mile trip now would be 300 X .01375= 4.125 or 304.125 Your gas mileage would "improve" unless you factor in the small odometer error.

Storage Box

Has anyone bought one of the hitch storage boxes from Thule or Stowaway? They are pretty pricey and it's hard to tell if one is better than the other. I am going to need one for vacation this year because my HL doesn't have the same storage as my 2002 Denali XL had.



Love the truck, bought a 2008 Sport that was loaded. I loved the Denali too, but didn't like the gas mileage



Thanks

Reply 1 : Storage Box

After reading a lot on these forums, it seems that if you have the factory cross bars, there may be issues with the factory cross bars supporting the weight of the box because of their flex.



It seems that most have gone with the aftermarket (thule/yakima) cross bars which are stronger (but aren't flush like the factory ones). Also search for the right size one because the longer boxes might be in the way of your rear gate.

Reply 2 : Storage Box

Thanks, but I am talking about the storage boxes that slide into the hitch

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